
Chili 4-way, Cheese Coney, and Gravy Cheese Fries – Pleasant Ridge Chili, Cincinnati, OH
Buried under comically large piles of shredded cheddar cheese is the culinary lifeblood of the Queen City—Cincinnati-style chili. This Greek-inspired meat sauce is thinner than most varieties of chili and has a sweet, complex flavor laced with allspice, cinnamon, and even a hint of dark chocolate. Think of it as midwestern mole sauce. Any self-respecting Cincinnatian has their chili order committed to memory. More common dishes like chili cheese fries and coneys are readily available, but the distinguishing feature on the menu is chili spaghetti, also known as “ways”. You can order a 3-way (spaghetti, chili, and cheese), a 4-way (add onion or beans), or a 5-way (add onion and beans). Either way, you’re in for a gut-bustingly tasty treat.
Out-of-towners may be familiar with local chains like Skyline and Gold Star, but there are mom and pop chili spots all over the tri-state area. These quaint eateries also offer a wide variety of menu items like breakfast and double decker sandwiches to go along with the trademark chili. The east coast has their diners—Cincinnati has our chili parlors. Pleasant Ridge Chili is one of the oldest (est. 1964) and most acclaimed chili parlors in town, so I had to stop in and try their take on the classics.
Don’t be intimidated by all of that cheese—it’s the glue that makes the chili adhere to the pasta. It can be equally binding to your bowels, but don’t let that discourage you. A 4-way may seem odd to outsiders, but it is in fact a complete dish. The spaghetti is the starch, the chili is the sweet and spicy protein, the onions are technically a vegetable and give the bite and crunch for textural variety, and the sharp cheddar cheese gives that umami kick while providing the dairy we all crave. The beauty of it is the progression of the dish over the course of the meal. When the plate first hits the table, the cheese is still cold, providing a pleasing contrast in temperature against the warm chili spaghetti. By the end of the meal, the cheese has melted and everything has transformed into a singular cornucopia of flavor and texture.
Alongside the usual suspects, Pleasant Ridge has gravy cheese fries that have been a staple since the start. The fries defy the laws of physics and somehow remain crispy after being lathered in the delectably rich, full-bodied gravy—or I just inhaled them before they had the chance to get soggy. They hit all the right notes at Pleasant Ridge Chili. The booths are red vinyl, the register is cash-only, and the walls are lined with classic photographs. It’s not hard to see why this chili parlor has been a neighborhood institution for over 5 decades.
If your travels take you to Cincinnati, you can’t leave town without trying the chili—it’s the defining food of the city and contains all the heart-warming flavors you could ever dream of in one dish. If you’re a local, I urge you to seek out these endearing little chili parlors that serve up our favorite comfort food with a timeless side of charm.