Eli’s BBQ

Ribs, Pulled Pork Sandwich, Jalapeño Cheddar Grits w/pork crispins, Coleslaw, and Baked Beans – Eli’s BBQ, Cincinnati, OH

Hotdogs and apple pie may get more patriotic publicity but no food is more American than barbecue. The longstanding southern ritual of smoking meats over hardwood is a regional art form practiced with religious fervor. However, the fine folks at Eli’s BBQ bring these landlocked flavors just north of the Mason-Dixon Line, serving up some of Cincinnati’s best barbecue.

Let’s start with the ribs—perhaps the toughest bbq dish to tackle, as they can dry out quicker than the Kalahari Desert. Eli’s avoids this common pitfall with a smoking process that creates a thick bark around the ribs, keeping them moist and crunchy. You can squeeze these puppies and watch juice pour out of the meat’s striations like soap from a sponge. The pulled pork has a similarly intoxicating char intertwined throughout the succulent strands of swiny goodness, piled up on a buttery bun with a refreshing cup of coleslaw. Both hickory-scented preparations have the intensely smoky flavor you look for in barbecue without tasting like the pig puffed cigars every day of its life. Meats as good as these don’t demand to be doused in sauce, but Eli’s signature recipe is nuanced and tangy—not to be confused with the cloyingly sweet molasses lacquer served on lesser barbecue. Here, the sauce complements the meat.

Much like the iridescent pink smoke ring in the pork, good side dishes are often an indication of quality barbecue. The baked beans have a depth of flavor you seldom find in a side dish with hints of brown sugar playing nicely alongside the salty meat. The crispy pork-topped cheddar jalapeño grits are a creamy, indulgent delight as well. If you haven’t had grits, I recommend these for your maiden journey. They’re spicy, cheesy, and have a unique texture—like savory, butter-laced Pop Rocks.

The smoke billowing out back of Eli’s Barbecue is a beacon of hope along the banks of the Ohio River. This understated eatery pays homage to a deeply rooted southern point of pride, offering an authentic rendition of America’s tastiest tradition.